Ninfa's spicy pickled carrots recipe

Spring in New York City can be tough. One day it will be bright and shiny weather, no jacket required. But just when you’re packing away your heavy coat, the next day will bring freezing rain and snow. The farmers' markets reflect this instability by refusing to offer anything but the same old turnips, potatoes and carrots that have been there for the past few months.

But you know what? That’s okay, as I’ve got a big batch of Ninfa’s spicy pickled carrots to snack on right now.

Ninfa’s pickled carrots are not on the menu, but they’ve been offering them for as long as I can remember. When you go to Ninfa’s, you have to ask for these carrots as they’re served by request only. But when you say, “I’d like the carrots, please,” the server will nod and smile, as if the two of you are privy to a delicious secret.



What makes these carrots so special? Well, they’re tender yet crisp rounds that have been marinated in a tangy, earthy blend of vinegar, oregano, cumin, onions, and chiles de arbol. A few slices of jalapeño are added for extra heat, but unlike other escabeches, carrots play the leading role.

Apparently, Ninfa’s on Navigation now offers a fajita burger (which I’m eager to try), and they serve the carrots on the side. This is a brilliant choice, as I’ve long added a few of the pickled carrots to my tacos al carbon as a way to balance out the richness of the beef. But why they don’t automatically serve the carrots with every meal is still a mystery, as along with Ninfa’s green sauce these spicy carrots help complete the meal.

A few years ago, the Houston Chronicle published the recipe for the carrots, noting that the proper name for the dish is curtido. (Who knew?). I’ve been sitting on that recipe for quite some time, but I finally whipped up a batch and was pleased at what a snap they are to make. In no time, my kitchen began to smell like a Tex-Mex joint and Houston didn’t seem so far away.



Now, this recipe packs quite a lot of heat—heck, even my fireproof palate was slightly singed after eating them—so please proceed with caution if you’re sensitive to that, and perhaps cut back on the chiles. But despite the fire, the flavor is just as I remembered it—peppery, soulful and bright. And while I wait for spring to finally get here, snacking on these spicy pickled carrots will be a fine way to patiently bide my time.

Ninfa's spicy pickled carrots (adapted from the Houston Chronicle)

Ingredients:
1 cup water
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 cups white vinegar
1 ounce chiles de arbol, stems removed
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt (plus more to taste)
1 pound carrots, cut into thin rounds
1/4 cup slivered onions
1 garlic clove
1 jalapeño, seeds and stem removed, sliced

Method:
In a medium-sized pot, add the water, vegetable oil, vinegar and chiles de arbol. Bring to a boil and then turn the heat down to medium. Cook for 5 minutes, uncovered.

Add to the pot the cumin, oregano, black pepper and salt. Continue to cook on medium for 5 more minutes. Add the sliced carrots, onions, garlic and jalapeño, and cook for 10 minutes, or until the carrots are your desired texture. Taste and add more salt if you prefer.

Cool and then refrigerate. Will keep for one month refrigerated.

Yield: about 2 pints

Note: Chiles de arbol can be found at Mexican grocers and many regular supermarkets. And be aware that these carrots are very hot, so you might want to cut back on the chiles de arbol.

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Jalapeño and cheese breakfast casserole recipe

“Will you be here for breakfast?” asked my mom. I replied that I would. “Great!” she said. “I’ll make Sue’s eggs.”

Sue is a friend of my mom’s, and she is famous for her breakfast casserole. She gave my mom the recipe, and our family has since made it a staple for special occasions. Now, while I tend to associate this breakfast casserole with Christmas morning, Mom’s making it in March signaled to me that maybe my visit was a cause for celebration, too.

What she didn’t know, however, was that I almost didn’t make it to her house. Between my running amuck in South Texas, and being so utterly charmed by the town of Victoria, I was tempted to linger in that part of the state and completely omit Houston from my itinerary.



Fortunately, I made the right decision.

Besides breakfast, mom also made a simple supper of tamales, apple-walnut salad and guacamole. We washed it down with Topo Chico—bottled Mexican fizzy water that I adore but can’t find in New York City. It was all superb.

While I ate very well during my time in Texas, I have to admit that the food that Mom cooked was definitely the best eating of my whole trip. Why? Because it was made with love. There’s a lot of sadness and heartbreak in the world right now, and like so many, I feel pretty powerless to make it better. Making donations to relief organizations does its part, of course. But being grateful, giving thanks, and showing love aren’t bad practices either.

Now, about this breakfast casserole. It’s not complicated—it’s just eggs, cheese, flour and canned green chiles, though Mom has made it her own by adding fresh jalapeños instead. It’s also very rich, as there’s so much cheese in it that one slice will supply you with a week’s worth of vitamin D and calcium. This bit of decadence is probably why my family saves it only for special days.



But you know what? I’ve decided that mom had the right idea—spending precious time with loved ones is always cause for celebration. We should cherish every moment that we have. So yes, I’m very grateful that I had the opportunity to visit with my mom, and share with her some delicious home-cooked food. It was the highlight of my trip to Texas. Thanks, Mom!

Jalapeño and cheese breakfast casserole

Ingredients:
4 large eggs
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup cottage cheese
1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese (4 ounces)
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (4 ounces)
1/4 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
2 jalapeños, stems and seeds removed, diced
Salsa for serving

Method:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease an 8x8 casserole dish or baking pan.

In a large bowl, beat the eggs. Stir in the flour, dry mustard, baking powder and salt. Stir in the cottage cheese, Monterey Jack cheese, cheddar cheese, butter and jalapeños, and mix until incorporated.

Pour the eggs into the casserole dish, and bake for 20-25 minutes or until the top is lightly browned and the center is firm. Serve warm with salsa.

Yield: 4-6 servings

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Ancho-chile shrimp quesadillas

For me, driving through Texas is therapeutic. Seeing the big sky, the wide-open spaces, the cattle, the trees, and the cacti out my window is always a pleasure—coming from New York, it’s always a memory come to life.

Last week, however, another memory returned—that dreadful feeling when you look into your rearview mirror, and see flashing lights from the car behind you. I thought I was being careful, but when I looked at the odometer I saw that I was indeed going a bit too fast. Yep, for the first time in 20 years, I was going to get a speeding ticket.

Pathetic doesn’t even begin to describe my pleading with the officer. I explained to him that it was an honest mistake, and that I hadn’t meant to go fast. I said that I had a clean record and that surely there were more criminal types out there who deserved a confrontation with the law. As a last, desperate attempt at getting out of the ticket, I told the policeman that I was scared to be driving by myself in such a remote area, and I was in a hurry to return to civilization. Well, he didn’t buy any of it (and in hindsight, I’m lucky he didn’t haul me to jail). So when he handed me my ticket, I simply said, “Thank you,” and bid him goodnight.



It was getting late, and as I was in the middle of nowhere, by the time I returned to a place where I could grab some dinner, all of the restaurants were closed. My remaining choices were gas-station food, Whataburger or a 24-hour taco joint. I’d already enjoyed a couple of Whataburgers on the trip, so I opted for the taco joint, seduced by its offer of shrimp quesadillas. Well, that was a mistake, as it was a handful of rubbery shrimp that had been sealed with bland cheese into a cardboard tortilla. I was disappointed.

There were a couple more days spent in Texas, and I did finally eat some excellent shrimp dishes—meals that helped fade my memories of that mediocre shrimp quesadilla. But when I returned to New York, I was still craving one—a shrimp quesadilla that had some flavor, some life, and some snap.

One of the things I love about shrimp is that it’s a terrific match for so many flavors. I’m partial to citrus and chiles, so I decided to pair mine with an ancho chile and orange marinade that was a little earthy, tangy and sweet. To assemble my quesadillas, I used a combination of creamy Monterrey Jack along with tangy Muenster. I also added some chopped jalapeños, and when I saw a few slices of bacon leftover from breakfast, I added them to the quesadillas, as well.

I don’t think I have to convince you that shrimp, jalapeños, and bacon are a winning combination. Plus, besides the time spent marinating the shrimp, the quesadillas came together in almost no time. These shrimp quesadillas could work as either an appetizer or a meal, best served with salsa and guacamole.

Of course, a quesadilla recipe is about as simple as a grilled cheese recipe—but the star of this dish is the shrimp flavored with ancho chile and orange juice, which, if you’re not in the mood for a quesadilla, can also be eaten on their own, with rice, with pasta or spooned over some grits.



So yes, while I’m a bit upset about my now tarnished driving record, if getting a speeding ticket is what it took me to make quesadillas with an excellent batch of ancho-chile shrimp, then I reckon I can’t complain too much.

Ancho-chile shrimp quesadillas

Ingredients:
For the shrimp:
1 dried ancho chile, stems and seeds removed
1/4 cup orange juice
1 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Pinch of cayenne
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
Salt to taste
1 pound of large uncooked shrimp (31-35 count), heads removed, peeled and deveined
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

For the quesadillas:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
8 six-inch flour tortillas
1 cup shredded Monterrey Jack cheese (4 ounces)
1 cup shredded Muenster cheese (4 ounces)
2 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
2 cooked pieces of bacon, crumbled (optional)
Salsa for serving

Method:
In a dry skillet heated on high, toast the ancho chile for about 10 seconds or just until it starts to puff. Fill the skillet with enough water to cover chiles. Leave the heat on until water begins to boil and then turn off the heat and let the chile soak until soft, about 30 minutes.

Drain and rinse the chile, and place into a blender. Add to the blender the orange juice, the lime juice, olive oil, the ground cumin, ground allspice, cayenne and garlic. Blend until smooth. Add salt to taste.

Pour the ancho-chile and orange marinade into a nonreactive container, and add the shrimp. Toss to coat and then store in the refrigerator for 2-8 hours.

To cook shrimp, melt the butter on medium-low heat in a large skillet, and add the shrimp, cooking for a couple of minutes on each side or until pink. (You may have to do this in batches.) Roughly chop the cooked shrimp and toss with some of the pan sauce, if you like.

To make the quesadillas, in a clean skillet heated to medium, melt another tablespoon of butter. Add a tortilla and cook it on one side until it puffs (about 30 seconds). 
Flip the tortilla over and sprinkle over entire surface 1/4 cup of the Monterrey Jack, 1/4 cup of the muenster, 1/4 of the chopped shrimp, 1/4 of the chopped jalapeños, 1/4 of the bacon, if you’re using it, and a tablespoon of chopped cilantro. Top with another tortilla, and after cheese has melted and the two tortillas stick together, flip the quesadilla and cook for a couple of minutes more. 
 Repeat procedure for the remainder of the filling and tortillas. Cut into slices and serve warm with salsa.

Yield: 4 servings

Shrimp quesadilla recipes from around the web:
Shrimp, kale and avocado quesadillas from In Good Taste
Shrimp and avocado quesadillas from Lydia at the Perfect Pantry
Shrimp quesadilla from Simply Recipes

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Ribs with Sam Houston's barbecue sauce

“Grand Barbecue!” read the headline announcing a large gathering for Senator Sam Houston in the Texas Banner. This was back in 1847, so it’s apparent that Texans have been eating and enjoying barbecue for a long time. And as this is the time of year when we celebrate Texas Independence, I can’t think of a finer way to honor our brave forefathers than by eating barbecue.

This year marks the 175th anniversary of Texas’ fight for freedom from Mexico. Now, if you can recall back 25 years to the 150th anniversary, we all learned a new word—sesquicentennial. Well, apparently there’s also a word for 175th—terquasquicentennial—which is quite a mouthful. As it took me almost a year to figure out how to say sesquicentennial when I was young, I reckon I’ll figure out how to pronounce terquasquicentennial in time for the bicentennial in 2036.

But enough about words, let’s get back to that barbecue. Sam Houston State University has a recipe on its web site for Sam Houston’s favorite barbecue sauce. When I first saw it, I scoffed and figured it was a fake document trying to capitalize on this Texan hero's good name. But the thought of this barbecue sauce from the 1800s intrigued me, so I did some research.



First, I was curious if people ate barbecue sauce back in the 1800s; I learned that sauces were indeed used to baste the meat as it cooked over the fire. Then I wondered if all the ingredients listed in the recipe were around during Sam Houston’s lifetime. Save for chili powder, which wasn’t sold until the 1890s, the other ingredients—such as Worcestershire sauce, pepper sauce and ketchup—were available while Houston was alive.

I was thrilled. Perhaps this recipe for Sam Houston’s favorite barbecue sauce was actually the genuine article! But no matter its authenticity, the recipe would be useless if it didn’t taste good. So, I made a batch and put the recipe to work.

I followed the recipe closely. In a nod to keeping it true to Houston’s time, however, I used crumbled chile pequins instead of chili powder—as the pequins are not only Texas’ native chile pepper, but it’s likely that Sam Houston would have had access to them, as well. The recipe also called for pepper sauce. I used Tabasco, which didn't come to market until six years after Houston died, but there were other pepper sauces both sold and made at home during his life, so it’s likely that Houston would enjoyed the bright heat of pepper sauce, too.

As the sauce bubbled on the stove, I dipped my spoon into the pot to taste this concoction. It was a good, solid tomato-based barbecue sauce—a little sweet, a little tangy and a little fiery. Satisfied that it was edible, I slathered the sauce on some ribs and then held my own grand barbecue.



This time of year, Texans enjoy taking special note of our state’s rich history. And if you’re celebrating the road to Texan independence, I can’t think of a finer way than by enjoying what may have been Sam Houston’s favorite barbecue sauce.

Happy Texas Independence Day!

Ribs with Sam Houston’s barbecue sauce

For the ribs:
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 racks St. Louis ribs

For the sauce:
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
¼ medium yellow onion, grated
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 teaspoons paprika
4 dried chile pequins, crumbled
1 tablespoon dry mustard
2 teaspoons water
Salt and black pepper to taste

Method:
Preheat the oven to 300 and line a large roasting pan with foil.

Mix together the salt, black pepper and cayenne and then sprinkle the ribs with the seasoning. Place the ribs meat-side up in the roasting pan. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 1 1/2 hour.

While the ribs are cooking, make the sauce. In a medium pot, heat up the vegetable oil on medium-low heat. Add the grated onions, and while stirring cook for 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Stir in the ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, apple cider vinegar and hot pepper sauce. Add the brown sugar, paprika and crumbled chile pequins. Mix together the dried mustard with 2 teaspoons of water to form a paste, mixing until smooth. Stir the mustard into the pot.

Bring the pot to a boil, then turn the heat down to low, cover the pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Take off the lid and stir. Place the lid back on and cook for another 10 minutes. Taste and add salt.

After an hour and a half, take the ribs out of the oven, open up the foil, and spread both sides of each slab with the sauce. Place back in the oven, meat-side up, and cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, take out the ribs and spread more sauce over them, and cook for 30 more minutes or until ribs are desired tenderness. 


At this point, place the ribs under the broiler and cook for 4 minutes or until the sauce is caramelized.

Yield: 4 servings

Note: I made these with chile pequins because I reckoned that’s what would have been available to Sam Houston back in the day, but feel free to substitute a 1 tablespoon of chili powder if you prefer.

The barbecue sauce recipe was adapted from one found on Sam Houston State University’s web site that was first published in The Early American Cookbook by Dr. Kristie Lynn & Robert W. Pelton.

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