Red chile hot wings

These days, when you say you’re serving wings, most people assume it’s the spicy variety that were made popular in the far upstate New York city of Buffalo. In a nod to their provenance, when these wings were first introduced to Texas in the late 1980’s, they were always called Buffalo wings, a name that perplexed me. My young mind reckoned they were named after the bovine mammal, which didn’t make much sense. Then I thought perhaps they referred to Buffalo, Texas—a small Texas town.

If you’re not familiar with Buffalo, Texas, it’s right off I-45 and was always a popular place for my family to stretch our legs as we journeyed between Dallas and Houston. It’s a quiet town, and stopping there doesn’t have the excitement of stopping in say, West for kolaches. The first time, however, that my mom and I paid a short visit to Buffalo, it ended up being quite an adventure.

Mom and I were in the process of moving from Dallas to Houston, and our car was loaded with boxes, along with our dog and cat. We had made the stop at night, and after pulling out of the gas station, Mom made a wrong turn and we ended up on a strange, dark road.



At first she thought it was the feeder, so we kept motoring along looking for the freeway entrance. But after we had traveled a good 15 minutes without any access, she began to get worried. Adding to the confusion were our pets, who after sensing her nervousness began barking and meowing while padding around the car.

As this was a time before GPS or cell phones, she had me look at a paper map to see if I could spot where we were. I couldn’t find the road on the map (nor could I figure out how to refold the map—a common problem back in the day), but I wasn’t worried as I was young and thought it was fun being lost in the middle of Texas. My mom, however, disagreed.

Finally, she decided that the road we were on would never lead to where we wanted to be, so she simply turned around and we made our way back to Buffalo. After a consultation with the gas station attendant, we ended up on the correct route and continued on to Houston. And yep, to this day, whenever I pass through Buffalo, I always think back to that night.

Getting back to those wings, the interesting thing about them—and why I was shocked to learn they were a Yankee import—is that they are known for their heat. If there’s one thing I’ve learned while living in the Northeast is many of its natives do not like it hot. But yep, it’s the heat is what has made them such a favorite treat in places far from upstate New York.



Now, no disrespect to Buffalo, but when I make my wings I like to call them red chile wings, as that name makes more sense to me as they're not quite the same. Instead of being fried, mine are baked (or grilled). And while most recipes call for wings to be topped with bottled hot sauce, I prefer to make my own red chile salsa, which allows me to control both the fire and the spice.

My red chile salsa is a blend of fiery chiles de arbol and berry-like guajillo chiles, with a bit of garlic, cumin, oregano and allspice thrown in to give the blend depth. For tang, I stir in some vinegar and then cook the salsa for a few minutes to bring all the flavors together.

This salsa, of course, makes a fine topping for other dishes such as tacos or eggs. But I like it best on wings, which I serve with chipotle blue cheese dressing, sliced radishes and jicama—the latter a trick I picked up from Houston chef Jonathan Jones’s new Mexican restaurant, Xuco Xicana.



These red chile wings are a perfect party food, and they always go fast—so if you’re serving a crowd you might want to double the recipe. And while the dish’s origins may have been in the Northeast, I find that this version has its roots firmly planted in Texas—both Buffalo and beyond.

Red chile wings
Ingredient for the wings:
1/4 cup lime juice
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon dried garlic flakes or 1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon cayenne, plus more to taste
2 pounds chicken wings, cut Buffalo style
1 jicama, peeled and cut into sticks
1/2 bunch of radishes, cut into slices
Chipotle blue cheese dressing

Ingredients for the red chile salsa:
25 chiles de arbol, stems and seeds removed
4 guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup white vinegar, plus more to taste
Salt to taste

Method:
To make the wings, stir together the lime juice, vinegar, olive oil, salt, black pepper, garlic and cayenne for a marinade. Place the wings in the marinade, and let sit unrefrigerated for 30 minutes. (If you want to marinade it longer, please keep in the refrigerator.)

Meanwhile, in a dry skillet heated on high, toast the chiles de arbol and guajillo on each side for about 10 seconds or just until they start to puff. Fill the skillet with enough water to cover chiles. Leave the heat on until water begins to boil and then turn off the heat and let the chiles soak until soft, about 30 minutes.

To cook the wings, preheat the oven to 375 degrees, and place a rack on a baking sheet lined with foil. (If you don’t have a rack, don’t worry—the wings will taste the same but be a little less crisp as the rack helps the fat drain as they cook.) Remove the wings from the marinade and place on the rack. Cook for 25 minutes, turn the wings over, and then cook for 20 more minutes.

While the wings are in the oven, remove the chiles from the soaking water, rinse and place in a blender. Add to the blender the garlic, cumin, oregano, allspice and 3/4 cup of water. Blend for 5 minutes until smooth. (You blend the chiles this long because they have very tough skins and this ensures the salsa is smooth without having strain it and lose some of the flavor.) In a skillet, heat up the oil on medium low and pour in the salsa. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, stir in the vinegar and add salt to taste. You can add more vinegar or water if you desire a thinner sauce.

After the wings have been in the oven for 45 minutes, remove from the oven and generously brush both sides with the red chile salsa (you can save remaining salsa for another use. It’s terrific on tacos and on eggs). Return to the oven and cook for 10 more minutes.

(Alternatively, you can cook the wings on the grill, about 10 minutes per side, turning once, brushing with sauce after removing from the grill.)

Sprinkle the jicama and radish slices with cayenne, and serve alongside wings with chipotle blue cheese dressing for dipping.

Yield: 4 servings

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Chipotle blue cheese dressing

This time of year, when most days it’s too darn hot to stand in front of the stove, let alone turn on the oven, I start eating a lot of salads. Namely one salad—my BLT salad with chipotle blue cheese dressing.

Blue cheese dressing was something I avoided for most of my life, probably because I was only exposed to inferior bottled versions, which can often be too sweet or have a rubbery texture. A few years ago, however, I was at a dinner party and my friend had made a batch of blue cheese dressing.

His intent was for us to use it as a dipping sauce. It was certainly thick enough for the job, and yet it was also light enough that it could glide onto salad leaves without weighing them down. As for the flavor and texture, the balance between the pungent, salty blue cheese and creamy, tangy dressing was perfect. I had no idea blue cheese dressing could be so good, and I’ve been a convert ever since.



When he shared with me his recipe, I tinkered with it just a bit. I love how smoky flavors complement blue cheese’s salty bite, so I stirred in some chipotle powder for both its smoke and its heat. To cut through the dressing’s richness, I added splash of white wine vinegar, though I reckon red wine vinegar or lime juice could work just as well.

As for my BLT salad, some may know it as an iceberg wedge. This classic dish, comprised of blue cheese dressing and a thick slice from a head of iceberg lettuce, has been around since at least the late 1800s. It’s long been a staple at both steakhouses and diners, and is one of my dad’s favorite things to pair with chicken-fried steak.

Sure, some may find iceberg lettuce reminiscent of a time when people sacrificed flavor for convenience, but in the summer it’s one of my favorite things to eat. While the thick, crisp leaves may lack a strong flavor, it’s this quality that makes it a terrific vehicle for a robust, heavier topping. Throw in some crumbled bacon and a ripe, juicy tomato, and you have a refreshing, filling dish.



I’ve convinced myself that eating this salad is a spot healthier than eating a BLT sandwich, since you don’t have the calories and carbohydrates from the bread. But I don’t enjoy it for health reasons; I love it because it’s quick and cool. And if you don't want to spend too much time in the kitchen, this salad will definitely satisfy.

Chipotle blue cheese dressing
Ingredients:
4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled and divided
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons buttermilk, plus more if needed
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon chipotle chile powder or 1 canned chipotle chile in adobo*
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1/2 cup sour cream or thick, Greek-style yogurt
Salt and black pepper to taste

Method:
Place the half the blue cheese crumbles, mayonnaise, buttermilk, garlic, paprika, chipotle chile powder (or canned chipotle chile), and vinegar in a blender and blend until smooth. Stir in the sour cream and remaining blue cheese crumbles. Taste and add salt and black pepper to taste.

If you want a thinner dressing, stir in more buttermilk until it’s the desired thickness.

Yield: about 1 cup

Note: Use one chipotle chile in adobo, not a WHOLE can!

BLT salad (Iceberg wedge with bacon and tomatoes):
Ingredients:
1 head of iceberg lettuce
8 pieces of cooked bacon, crumbled
1 cup diced red, ripe tomato
1 cup chipotle blue cheese dressing

Method:
Cut the iceberg lettuce into four wedges, lengthwise. Place each wedge on a plate, and top with crumbled bacon, diced tomatoes and chipotle blue cheese dressing.

Yield: 4 servings

Related posts from around the web:
Blue cheese dressing from David Lebovitz:
Bacon and blue cheese wedge salad from Ezra Poundcake
Crisp lettuce wedge salad from The Perfect Pantry

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French toast casserole with blueberries and sausage

When most people think of dad cuisine, they think of outdoor cooking. And sure, my dad is an expert with fire—preparing everything from smoked briskets to grilled fish with vegetables. But my dad also wields a deft spatula in the kitchen, especially when he makes his weekend specialty—French toast.

Admittedly, French toast is not a complex dish. It’s simply old bread that’s been rejuvenated with eggs and milk before being fried in a skillet. And yet—despite its uncomplicated ingredients—finesse is required to make a good batch, otherwise it can turn out soggy or burnt. My dad, however, always gets it just right. And that’s why his is the best.

My connection with French toast and fatherhood isn’t limited to my own experience. Take the film “Kramer vs. Kramer,” for instance. There’s a scene early in the film where Kramer decides to prepare French toast for his son. The two are clearly uncomfortable with Kramer’s new role as caretaker, and as they cook the French toast, eggs are dropped, milk is spilled, and Kramer burns his hand. Their breakfast is a disaster.

At the end of the film, however, you see Kramer and his son making French toast in a beautifully coordinated rhythm, as they’ve grown close and learned how to live with each other. Who knew French toast could so eloquently illustrate a father and child’s relationship?



Now, all that said—I’m not going to tell you how to make French toast. Nope, my belief is that it’s not a dish that can be explained by words—practice is what makes it turn out perfect. But, I will share with you the next-best thing—my French toast casserole, made with blueberries and sausage.

My grandma likes to say that I take simple things and make them all complicated. If that’s true, then she will not be surprised that I’ve taken my dad’s simple yet elegant dish and embellished it a bit. Much like regular French toast, French toast casserole is comprised of cooked bread that’s been soaked in eggs and milk. But instead of being pan fried, it’s baked. The inclusion of orange juice, fresh blueberries and spicy sausage also breathes life into this French toast casserole.

Most recipes call for an overnight soak— which you can do—but I think it’s just as good with a short soak, as this keeps the bread from becoming too soggy. And yes, after some time in the oven, the resulting casserole is soft with a bit of crispness, sweet with a hint of savory. Plus, breakfast is done without you having to stand in front of a stove. Sure, French toast casserole isn’t exactly like regular French toast. But don’t worry—the casserole’s heritage is definitely apparent.



Sadly, I’m not going to be seeing my dad this father’s day, but if I were visiting him I’d make sure he’d have a batch of this waiting for him in the morning, so he could take a well-deserved day off from making the family breakfast. But it’s certainly not a dish to be limited to only Father’s Day, as it’s a terrific weekend breakfast any time of the year.


French toast casserole with blueberries and sausage
Ingredients:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 cups milk or half-and-half
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest
2 tablespoons orange juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 24-inch loaf of French bread, cubed (about 5 cups)
2 cups fresh blueberries
1/2 pound breakfast sausage, cooked and crumbled
Powdered sugar, syrup and/or sour cream for serving

Method:
In a large, 10-inch ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, on low heat melt the butter and swirl so it coats the bottom and the sides. (Alternatively, you can add melted butter to a 9x9 square pan.)

Beat the together the milk and eggs. Whisk in the sugar, orange zest, orange juice, vanilla, cinnamon and salt until well combined.

Layer the bottom of the skillet with half of the bread. Top with the blueberries and crumbled cooked sausage. Place on top the remaining bread cubes, and then pour over the bread the milk and eggs until all pieces are well covered.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Let the casserole sit unrefrigerated for 20 minutes, until some of the milk mixture has been absorbed, and then bake covered for 25 minutes. Remove the cover and then bake uncovered for 20 minutes or until top is firm and lightly browned. Let the casserole rest for 10 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve with syrup and/or sour cream.

Yield: 8 servings

Note: You could also make this with thick Texas toast bread or even leftover buns, if you like. And if you wanted to add nuts, that would be tasty, too.

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Jalapeño and beer brined pork chops

“Are you familiar with the pork chop theory?” asked food writer Virginia Willis. I admitted that I was not. “Let me explain,” she said. And then she did.

Before I tell you about the pork chop theory, however, let me just say that that illuminating conversation was just one of many I had last week in Austin while attending the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual conference. This gathering, which draws large crowds (over 800 were in attendance this year), is not one that I would normally be attracted to as I prefer smaller events. But when I saw that the conference was going to be held in my home state I knew that I had to attend.

While I’m still processing all that I learned, one thing that gave me joy was seeing first-time visitors to Texas fall in love with our great state. Despite the triple-digit temperatures, the conference attendees took to the Austin streets on foot and on bikes—sampling barbecue, tacos and ice cream, among many other excellent dishes on offer. In between sessions, people would gather in groups and compare notes about where they’d eaten that day—insisting that if one hadn’t been to a favorite place yet they must go soon. It made me smile to see people flush with discovery.



But besides the thrill of seeing people fall in love with my home state, the conference also gave me an opportunity to connect with far-flung friends that I usually communicate with only online. Sure, I’ve had many substantive conversations with friends over email, Twitter or Facebook, but there’s something to be said about the power of meeting in person and sharing a hug and a meal.

One such meal was held at Lambert’s, a downtown Austin restaurant that specializes in upscale Texan home cooking and barbecue. The temperature had dropped, so we sat on the patio enjoying a gentle breeze coming off of Lady Bird Lake. While spearing our forks into large plates filled with ranch style beans, collard greens, sausages, ribs, and, yes, pork chops, we talked about community, sharing and giving thanks—the foundations for healthy relationships with both friends and colleagues.

Which leads me back to Virginia Willis and the pork chop theory. Willis, a veteran author, was giving me tips about what to expect when my book is published, emphasizing how all authors can help each other. To illustrate her point, she quoted Nathalie Dupree who came up with the pork chop premise.

According to Dupree, if you cook one pork chop in a pan on high heat it will burn. But if you cook two pork chops in a pan, the chops will cook evenly as each chop’s fat will feed the other. As Willis has written, “It’s the ultimate in giving, sharing, and developing mutually beneficial partnerships and relationships. It’s not about competition, it’s about sharing the fat, sharing the love.”



With that, I leave you with these jalapeño and beer brined pork chops. The fiery, flavorful brine makes for a tender and juicy chop, which can be pan fried, roasted or thrown on the grill. I like to serve them unadorned, but they would be also be terrific with a splash of green sauce or pico de gallo. But no matter how you serve them, just be sure to share the fat and share the love!

Jalapeño and beer brined pork chops
Ingredients:
4 jalapeños, cut in half, lengthwise
6 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/4 cup cilantro
1 12-ounce bottle of Mexican lager
4 medium (about 6-ounces each) bone-in pork chops
1 teaspoon vegetable oil

Method:
In a large, non-reactive container or food-storage bag, mix together the jalapeños, garlic, salt, pepper, brown sugar, lime juice, cilantro and beer. Place the pork chops in the container and then add cold water until the chops are covered, about two cups. Place the container in the refrigerator, and let the pork chops marinate for at least four hours.

To cook the pork chops, remove from them from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large ovenproof skillet, heat up the vegetable oil on medium heat. Remove the pork chops from the brine, shaking off any excess. Place the pork chops in the skillet, and cook on each side for 5 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven, and cook the pork chops for 15 minutes, uncovered, or until a meat thermometer reads 145 degrees. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Alternatively, you can cook them on the grill about 10 minutes per side, or until a thermometer reads 145 degrees. Allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Yield: 4 servings

Note: If you don't want to use beer, ginger ale would be a good substitute.

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